KOKODA Track

In Australia's military history there are many 'great' theatres of war. There are however two that are enshrined in folklore. The first being the 'Gallipoli' campaign in World War I when an inept British military hierarchy sent thousands of ANZAC (Australia & New Zealand Army Corps) soldiers to their deaths in a failed attempt to take the Turkish coastline. The second, is the Kokoda Track where in World War II, the Japanese suffered their first land defeat of the war, and were forced to retreat.

BACKGROUND

It is June 1942 and following a successful military campaign that had seen the Japanese sweep all before them, they arrived at the northern coast of Papua New Guinea (PNG) . A country, which at the time was regarded as a territory / protectorate of Australia. The military goal of the Japanese was to continue their push south, across what they believed was a minor mountain range (Owen Stanley range) to the capital city Port Moresby. From there they would control access to the narrow water way between Australia and PNG known as the Coral Sea and would have a stranglehold over much of the access to Australia's eastern seaboard.

Upon arriving at Buna on the north coast the Japanese were met by threadbare resistance from the Australian military personnel that were stationed there. Many of these soldiers were part of the milita left to defend the northern regions of Australia's interest, as the vast majority of the truly professional soldiers were fighting in the Western European campaigns on behalf of their allies.

However, what was expected by the Japanese to be an easy 2-4 day walk over the mountains, along what was and still is ostensibly a goat track, turned into a 6-7 month disastrous campaign that saw the Japanese reach within 25 miles of Port Moresby before being turned back by the Australian's .

How did the Australians do it ? In short, initially vastly outnumbered, the Australians undertook several tactical retreats as they stalled for time against insurmountable odds. In doing so they stretched the supply line of the Japanese who were ill prepared for a campaign lasting more than a few weeks , let alone several months. As they reached the outskirts of Port Moresby, the Japanese soldiers were demoralised, ridden with various tropical diseases, severely short on supplies, and having suffered terrible losses were essentially on their knees. By this stage a few battalions of Australian soldiers had been withdrawn from the European campaign to repel the Japanese. Facing these battle hardened veterans and renewed military strategies, the Japanese were forced to do a hasty retreat back to Buna and evacuation. Thus handing the Australian's a mighty morale boosting victory.

THE TRACK

Commencing on the northern side of the Owen Stanley range in a small village called Kokoda, the track runs approximately 96 km (60 miles) in a SSW direction across the mountains to a small outpost called Owers Corner. Taking into account the undulation of the terrain the total distance walked is closer to 146 km. The track is in most parts no more than 4 feet wide. Whilst the altitude of the range is not high (highest point being 1,290 metres / 4,232 ft) what is debilitating is the humidity (90-95%) the day time temperatures (28-33 C) , inclement weather, threat of malaria and the manner of the local fauna which includes leeches, spiders, and venomous snakes amongst others. The mountain range terrain is extremely steep in parts and includes a multitude of river crossings. Most days on the track involves countless climbs and descents through a tropical jungle along a path made slippery by either rain or humidity. Such is the severity of the terrain and conditions that on one of the days we will take over 8 hours to walk just 8 km. (5 miles).

I had been meaning to walk the track in its entirety ever since I was old enough to know of its existence, which was when I was about 8 years of age.

I first walked a segment of the track with two friends in 1984 when Port Moresby was my home. Setting off from the southern end of the track we carried our own supplies and after walking northwards for two days, decided we'd had enough and retreated back to the comfort of the Sogeri Hotel and its palatial pool near Owers Corner.

Now, many years later I will be returning to fulfil that promise I made to 8 year old Nick.

Things have changed somewhat since those early days. It is rare to see any one attempt the track individually or as a self supported group. There are many reasons for this. Personal safety is one of them. These days there are various trekking companies that will 'guide' you over the track. I, along with a good friend, Gareth.T will be utilising the services of one of these trekking companies and will set off on May 4, to walk the track from Kokoda to Owers Corner. An eight day odyssey that promises much and will probably deliver more.

Next post - The preparation, the kit, the logistics.